The hills are alive

A full two months after my European vacation, I sit at my laptop writing this. I’m saved from worrying too much though by the simple fact that there is no one waiting for this post. Quite unlike how people waited for their Christie at Christmas back then or the latest Imtiaz Ali movie these days. Although I bet some of those folks feel pretty silly right about now!


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I don’t like burgers. It is not something you would ever suspect anyone of, but it’s true. I just don’t. On the train to Salzburg there was not much of a vegetarian selection and I had to make do. Surprise surprise! This burger was unlike any I have ever eaten. I don’t think there was even a patty. It was more like a veggie sandwich from Subway but with flavour. The feta cheese was very salty but in a good way. Words cannot describe the yumminess so I will just say – if you are on a train to Salzburg and someone offers you that veggie burger, take it!

I am totally mixed up in my head as far as train stations go but I think Salzburg was the underground one with lifts that brings you to ground level where the taxi drivers you have advance booked wait for you (muttering under their breath in Hindustani all the while). I say Hindustani, not Hindi, because the majority of the people we met speaking Hindi in Europe were in fact Pakistanis and really the language we all speak is a mix of Hindi and Urdu and should I believe be called Hindustani.

Anyhow, they took us to our hotel which was really a service apartment called Apt Stone Lodge. And it turned out to actually be a stone lodge! It is built right into a rock face. State this here and now – of all places I stayed at on this trip, this was my favourite. And we stayed at some pretty nice places! This one was super cosy, nicely located, completely homey(not too fancy) and it had a piano. Since it was Mother’s Day while we were there, the kids put up a performance (they had started prepping in Prague) for us and the piano came in very handy. What is it with Salzburg and singing children?

 

My kids are learning to play the piano and know their Mozart from Beethoven so I did not want to miss the chance of taking them to a concert while we were here. The one I wanted to go to was at Mirabell Palace but they were not playing the days that we were here so our next choice was the Salzburg Fort. Now I like music, but I am not at all highbrow so I checked out TripAdvisor reviews from other Indian visitors to figure out if we would like it. The reviews were mostly positive and spoke about the atmosphere and the fort and the moonlight so we went for it.

The fort is a short walk away from Apt Stone Lodge and we all walked down. It is a lovely fort with a fabulous view from the top.

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There is also a museum. I liked this marionette exhibit representing the Von Trapp family.

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Our pre-concert meal was a little underwhelming and the music put the younger one to sleep almost at once, but I enjoyed myself. The only other Indian family present took to their heels at intermission but we stuck it out till the end. It was a little scary walking back. That part of Salzburg sleeps early. It could not have been later than eleven but there was not a soul on the streets and I wished for a cab but there was none.

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We took the Hop-on-Hop-off lakes and mountains tour the next day. Starting at the Mirabell gardens and taking lots of Sound of Music style pictures, we went on the most scenic drive. The audio commentary was informative in a distant way and we enjoyed ourselves overall.

Our first stop was at Sankt Gilgen – also called Mozart village although Mozart never visited this place. The lake it is built around is called Wolfgangsee and it is a charming place. There was a cable car ride to the top of a nearby hill and some of us took it while the rest of us were content to walk by the lake and eat at the cafe. Also run by someone speaking Hindustani! Our kids ran wild in a nearby park and invented some fun pirate games. We ended up missing our hop-on because of a mix-up regarding timings. The driver told us to expect a bus in 45 minutes but he meant 45 minutes from the scheduled, not the actual time of arrival. Put it simply, even if your bus was late – expect the next one to be right on time! There were also some local buses that we missed but Sankt Gilgen deserved the extra time.

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Our next stop was at Mondsee which smelled strongly of cow (which is a smell I like) but was pretty-pretty with tiny bylanes selling, oddly enough, fashionable boots. We had no time to stop however and made a quick trip to the church which is famous for being where Maria married Captain Von Trapp in The Sound of Music. Even minus that bit of trivia, I would have loved the place. It made me feel like I did about the Naina Devi temple – it was a real place of worship, not a tourist spot.

We ran all the way back so as to not miss the bus again but the very few other stops left were largely skippable. We got off with the feeling that we should have stayed longer at Mondsee. We could not take another green line at Mirabelle for time reasons but we took a white line to the old town. This was exactly like other European old towns. My friends bought paintings and I took pictures and plagiarised one on my own. This was done with no malice at all, I only wanted to draw again – I haven’t since I was in middle school – and I did not feel ready to start with something original. The outcome is exactly like something a middle schooler would make but I had so much fun!

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We were running out of clean clothes by this time and I had read on the net about the Green and Clean laundry and as part of my green manifesto wanted to spread the word about their good work after some first hand experience but it was not to be. They were closed for repairs and with the grim knowledge that we had only two good sets of clothes each left before we found a laundromat in the Black Forest, we returned home.

Our children were waiting anxiously for us so they could begin their performance. We thoroughly enjoyed the songs and skits about strict moms and kids who love them anyway. We hushed them a bit so as to not disturb the early-sleeping Salzburg neighbourhood but nothing could dampen their spirits or our pride and joy.

I loved Salzburg most of all the places I saw these two weeks in Europe. Perhaps things look rosier through happy tears?

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