The Devil lives in Praha

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We didn’t exactly cover ourselves in touristy glory in Vienna and were determined to make up for the lapse. Prague is exactly the place for such plans!
The countryside en route was lovely but the city itself was as pretty as I have seen.

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We stayed at the Residence Bene in the old town of Prague. It was small and full of character. My friends were upset because the towels looked like they had been purchased when the hotel was set up around World War II but they looked clean enough (though yellow) so I was not too bothered. The kettle did not look so clean and that definitely bothered me!

It was a bit cold but sunny and bright. The view from my window was old town cheek by jowl with shiny new city which is my favourite kind of view.

They provided a decent breakfast but the USP has to be the location! We were a short walk away from everything.

There were a number of interesting looking stores nearby including many selling art supplies. Prague looks like that kind of place! However, the art supplies were insanely expensive – in Indian money anyway. No way was I paying a 100 bucks for a pencil my boys would surely lose in a minute!

On our way to the Astronomical Clock tower in the old town square, we saw this man blowing soap bubbles which thrilled the children who jumped around trying to burst them. There were loads of kids doing this and in fact, the entire square was full of people doing street stuff. Our kids dropped some money in the man’s bucket like all the other kids but while he collected the white kids for pictures, he shouted at our children who were still innocently bouncing around after bubbles. It was the greatest shock to see someone who makes a living off children behave like this. To be honest, we were too shocked to react with the sort of anger that that man deserved. In hindsight it was probably all for the best since the episode closed quickly, the kids did not realize what had happened and we were able to salvage our day. But it left a very bad taste in our mouth! There is a God up above though and it began to rain almost immediately after and while we continued to have fun, this fellow had to shut shop and made no more money that day.

Unfortunately the clock was being repaired at the time. But it was beautifully made and we were able to see the clockwork procession. It was interesting to see the vices – greed, vanity, death(??!!) and something else that I have forgotten. The good figures I have predictably forgotten entirely but do look up!

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From there to the famous Charles Bridge was but a step – but a very souvenir rich step! I travel with die-hard shopaholics and progress was slow. There were hand embroidered aprons and caps, paintings, cups, figurines, clock models, Bohemian crystal and magnets! The only two things that caught my eye (and I regret not buying) were

  1. These crazy colorful Dali-esque paintings of CharlesBridge that I saw in a side alley and should should have bought! I cannot find anything similar on the internet to show you what I mean. I SO wish I had not been so sensible about not adding to our severely packed limited luggage!
  2. Garnets – I fell in love with a pair of earrings and did not buy because my husband was not there and I wanted him to approve of them. Now this was probably all for the good since my uncle’s warnings and numerous other net based feedback insists that most garnets sold in Prague are fakes. However, the super recommended Granat Turnov had a store less than 200 meters from the Residence Bene so this was really a miss! If you like jewelry and have troubled to research –  do buy some while here!

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We went from there to the Lennon wall. I have seen more interesting graffiti but the peace messages and the general flower child vibe of the place was fun and contagious! I spotted this water wheel nearby which looked interesting. There were a number of cafes and we stopped for a break.

And then back!

Our second day in Prague was along similar lines. A ride on Tram 22. The Prague castle where I heard this lovely opera singer.

A visit to the Jewish quarter was next after which we stopped for lunch at an Italian place and I had the most amazing ravioli! The chocolate museum was the most fun for the kids and we ate more chocolate than was good for us. I also bought a tub of chocolate face cream. The chocolatey smell makes me feel like I am walking around in my own bakery bubble. Reason enough to buy it, no?

We went next to Kampa Island where the kids found a park to play in and I noticed this very unexpected statue of Chinmaya!

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And back to Old Town Square. My little one is reading Asterix these days and wanted to eat wild boar (he saw a pig on a spit) but did not like it much when it arrived. Finally dinner and a late night on Charles Bridge.

Then Goodbye Prague. We missed a lot – we did not tandem cycle (group cycle?) while drinking beer and singing songs, we took no rides in vintage cars, we did not ride in a horse drawn carriage, didn’t see the Fred and Ginger building. And we missed the garnets! I may never visit Prague again but if you do – please pick some up for me!!


PS. The Indian Food Reccos :-

My husband insists my friends and I are not fit to go anywhere outside India, but we like our desi food. So, for Indians in Prague – here’s the recco.

  • The Dhaba Beas where we ate our first lunch had a great system where you pay by weight for what you eat. What a neat way to reduce wastage!
  • For dinner, we headed out to The Indian Jewel. This was a posher place than the dhaba. Although there was indoor seating, we sat out under umbrellas. The owner looked European and had a silver ponytail but spoke Punjabi! I love when people do that. When I was a child, I got on a train once where there were a number of  Sardars speaking fluent Tamil! Anyway, both places served good food.
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